Στέκι Συλλεκτών

δηλαδη σμαρτμορφευς το πηρα σε καλη τιμη οντως αξιζει? η μπορουσε να βρεθει ποιο φθηνο?
εσεις σε τι κατασταση το κατατασσετε οπως λενε για παραδειγμα fine, very fine ?
τα ρωταω για να το γραψω επανω στο χαρτι που θα το τυλιξω
ο μονος λογος που σκεφτομαι να αρχισω  μαζευω ισπανικα  ειναι γιατι εχουν μια ομορφια σαν νομισμα και σχεδιο και οτι ηταν μεγαλη αυτοκρατορια οι ισπανοι με τον κολομβο κλπ

VF+ ισως και XF. ειναι καλοχτυπημενο κατι που δεν ειναι δεδομενο σta pillar dollar.Σ αυτα συναλλασονταν σε ολο τον κοσμο τοτε και στην Ελλαδα. Στην επανασταση συνεχεια αναφερονται σε ταλληρα αποικιων.σ αυτα αναφερονται,Το συσκεκριμενο ειναι ΜΕξικου και της πολης του Μεξικου, του ποιο ευκολου νομισματοκοπειου . Θα ειχε μια υπεραξια καλη αν ηταν κεντραρισμενο ή κομμενο σε αλλο νομισματοκοπειο Durango ή Guandalahara. Στο coincommunity υπαρχουν καναδυο που τα παιζουν στα δαχτυλα.Aμα θες ανεβαζουμε καμμια φωτο εκει για να ρωτησουμε την γνωμη τους.

The coin absolutely matches the matrix used to manufacture dies of that era. The alignment is accurate meeting Mexico City standards. The only two alignment issues are contained in the date and the King's name. The 8 is slightly low but the other digits are radially aligned including the 5 which is often tilted counterclockwise on forgeries but is correct here. The D in FERDIN is rotated clockwise but the rest of the alignments are nearly perfect. The die appears to be genuine. It could also be a recently made copy of an original coin.

This gives rise to only two possibilities a genuine coin or a counterfeit made using some sort of transfer process.

I noticed some high point surface cracking that likely traces to the laminating process. This appears only on the low pressure struck areas of the portrait (the highest point of the standard camber). That means the planchet production, die camber and strike is close to standard. Lamination lines that occur predominantly in the fields at HIGH pressure points are a clue to a forgery. Here the lamination is far less pronounced and is confined to a completely appropriate area of the coin. They should be examined to determine if they were closed by the strike or if they were in place on the die or mold that could have made the coin.

I did notice some odd looking surface lumps which should be checked very closely. The origin of these lumps need to be determined.

So what I can say at this point it this appears to be neither a Class 1 or Class 2 counterfeit. They are close to being ruled out entirely by the technology used and the historical reasons behind counterfeit production.

I would still examine the edge to insure a period edging mill was employed and that the dies used to edge the coin were made properly and the application was done correctly - two overlaps of equal length exactly opposite one another of the identical length.

The weight and Specific Gravity measurements should also be made.

The final step is to examine all of the elements at once and to determine the most likely Classification. It is most likely a decision can be made without XRF.

I hope this helps. As you can see the method I use is based on a preponderance of evidence. Once a majority of the facts point to one answer that is most likely you have the correct one. 

βαλτα σε κανενα τετοιο χαρτονακι και γραψε οτι θελεις απεξω.οι περισσοτεροι σε τετοια τα βαζουμε και μετα αλμπουμ.

([url]http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r627/epop1979/IMGP0449_zpsee66c0b8.jpg[/url])

τις μικραινα στην ζωγραφικη και παλι μου λεει οτι ειναι μεγαλες >:( πειτε τι να κανω παρακαλω

ΕΙπαμε το πηρες στην τρεχουσα τιμη του ισως αν εψαχνες λιγο να τσιμπαγες κανενα κανα δεκαρικο λιγοτερο αλλα οκ είναι ομορφο νομισμα και προσωπικα μου αρεσει που ειναι χτυπημενο απο την μητρα εκτος κεντρου οπως αρκετα νομισματα της εποχης εκεινης

The edge is a bit out of focus so it is hard to tell - but I do not see appropriate overlaps and the edge wobbles. Some of the segments also look slightly irregular. Just can not tell.